ROYAL GORGE OF THE
AMERICAN RIVER
By Jim and Shirley White
Tahoe
National Forest Supervisor Richard Bigelow saddled up his horse at Emigrant
Gap, mounted, and headed south for Westville on the Foresthill divide to
investigate a report of a large forest fire burning near Michigan Bluff. It was
5 A.M. on August 1, 1909. Ranger Bigelow had given orders to the trail crew at
Mumford’s Bar on May 18th, to build a trail from Mumford’s Bar on
the North Fork of the American River to Emigrant Gap for just this kind of
emergency. He had a report that the trail was completed and now was the time
not only to inspect the trail job, but to use this new trail to lend a hand in
fighting this important fire.
One hundred
and four years later, on November 30, 2013, Shirley and I headed south in our
jeep, along this same trail to photograph the Royal Gorge of the North Fork of
the American River. About ten miles of this trail is now a road and paved. Near
the ten mile marker we turned east off the old trail on forest road 19, headed
for the abandoned site of the Big Valley Bluff fire lookout. To the East and
2000 feet below is the Royal Gorge of the North Fork of the American River.
This year we could see at least a mile of the river was dry, with only a hidden
flow of water below the river gravel.
In late
July, 1955 I had visited with Bill Watson, Forest Service lookout at Big Valley
Bluff lookout, who told me of seeing several Golden Eagles flying below his
lookout on some days. The old trail to the lookout was only a jeep road part
way back in the 1950’s, and I had to hike about one half of a mile to get to
this outstanding view. Parts of the old horse trail to the lookout are still visible
to this day.
On the
recent trip to the lookout the weather was perfect. Not a breath of air was stirring,
and a few clouds made the scene special. We photographed the Gorge from a
number of promontories to the east of the lookout always looking below, hoping
to see an Eagle. After a couple of hours it was time to go and we reluctantly
headed up along the sharp ridge out with one glance back down the canyon. And
there they were! There were two Golden Eagles, with fixed wings, gliding below
us. I let out a yell, stopped the jeep, grabbed the D-7000 with the long lens,
and drew down on the birds below. The auto lens would not focus! The target was
too small, the lens was not fast enough to focus, who knows what went wrong? We
missed the shot. The birds apparently landed below the point of the cliff where
we could not see them. Who knows how long they were going to sit below us? We
missed the shot and it is just part of the game.
Ranger Bigelow
rode his horse down into the American River canyon 2000 feet below and then
back up 2000 feet to the road at Westville where he ate dinner. After dinner he
received a message that the fire had jumped over Deadwood Ridge. He saddled back
up and was on the fire line by 4 PM. He
supervised the fire fight till midnight, slept on the line waiting for
daylight. He then worked on the fire line the next 3 days and established a
camp to feed the fire fighters. After
this fire was out Ranger Bigelow rode his horse up Ralston Ridge, to French
Meadows and three days later arrived back home in Nevada City.
While
sitting on the cliff at Big Valley Bluff and looking down on Mumford’s Bar, we
talked about Ranger Bigelow and his epic horse trips throughout the Tahoe
National Forest. I have a copy of his diary, but I really wish he had had a
camera. As they say, they just don’t make them like that anymore.